Fashion and Its Social Agendas

Author: Diana Crane
Publisher: University of Chicago Press
ISBN: 0226924831
Format: PDF
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It has long been said that clothes make the man (or woman), but is it still true today? If so, how has the information clothes convey changed over the years? Using a wide range of historical and contemporary materials, Diana Crane demonstrates how the social significance of clothing has been transformed. Crane compares nineteenth-century societies—France and the United States—where social class was the most salient aspect of social identity signified in clothing with late twentieth-century America, where lifestyle, gender, sexual orientation, age, and ethnicity are more meaningful to individuals in constructing their wardrobes. Today, clothes worn at work signify social class, but leisure clothes convey meanings ranging from trite to political. In today's multicode societies, clothes inhibit as well as facilitate communication between highly fragmented social groups. Crane extends her comparison by showing how nineteenth-century French designers created fashions that suited lifestyles of Paris elites but that were also widely adopted outside France. By contrast, today's designers operate in a global marketplace, shaped by television, film, and popular music. No longer confined to elites, trendsetters are drawn from many social groups, and most trends have short trajectories. To assess the impact of fashion on women, Crane uses voices of college-aged and middle-aged women who took part in focus groups. These discussions yield fascinating information about women's perceptions of female identity and sexuality in the fashion industry. An absorbing work, Fashion and Its Social Agendas stands out as a critical study of gender, fashion, and consumer culture. "Why do people dress the way they do? How does clothing contribute to a person's identity as a man or woman, as a white-collar professional or blue-collar worker, as a preppie, yuppie, or nerd? How is it that dress no longer denotes social class so much as lifestyle? . . . Intelligent and informative, [this] book proposes thoughtful answers to some of these questions."-Library Journal

The Study of Dress History

Author: Lou Taylor
Publisher: Manchester University Press
ISBN: 9780719040658
Format: PDF, Mobi
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Over the past ten years the study of dress history has finally achieved academic respectability. This book shows how the fields of dress history and dress studies are now benefitting from the adoption of new multi-disciplinary approaches and outlines the full range of these approaches which draw on material culture, ethnography, and cultural studies. Raises a series of frank and fresh issues surrounding approaches to the history of dress, including analysis of the academic gender and subject divides that have riven it in the past. Comprehensive, engaging and trenchant, this will become the benchmark volume in the study of dress history.

Fashion and Art

Author: Adam Geczy
Publisher: Berg
ISBN: 0857852140
Format: PDF
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For at least two centuries, fashion and art have maintained a competitive love-hate relationship. Both fashion and art construct imaginary worlds, and use a language of style to invigorate beliefs, perceptions and ideas. Until now the crossovers of fashion and art have received only scattered treatment and suffered from a dearth of theorization. As an attempt to theorize the area, this collection of new and updated essays is the most well-rounded and authoritative to date. Some of the world's foremost scholars in the field are assembled here to explore the art-fashion nexus in numerous ways: from aesthetics and performance to masquerade and media. Original and inspiring, this book will not only secure 'art-fashion' as a discrete area of study, but also suggest new critical pathways for exploring their continuing cross-pollination. Fashion and Art is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, art history and theory, cultural studies and related fields.

Blasen

Author: Peter Sloterdijk
Publisher: Suhrkamp Publishers
ISBN:
Format: PDF, Docs
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M rkte

Author: Patrik Aspers
Publisher: Springer-Verlag
ISBN: 3658087803
Format: PDF, Docs
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Unser Leben wird von Märkten bestimmt. Sie sind für die kapitalistischen Volkswirtschaften weltweit konstitutiv und haben von Anfang an viele öffentliche Debatten ausgelöst. Während Märkte für die Einen der unübertroffene Modus der Handlungskoordination sind, werden sie von Anderen als Quelle vieler gesellschaftlicher Übel eingestuft und bekämpft. Dieses Buch vereint das Wissen über Märkte von Soziologie, Ökonomie und Anthropologie und untersucht systematisch die verschiedenen Formen von Märkten, denen wir täglich in unserem Leben begegnen.

Der gro e Fotoguide f r die perfekte Passform

Author: Sarah Veblen
Publisher: Stiebner Verlag GmbH
ISBN: 3830709153
Format: PDF
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Auf dem Weg zu maßgeschneiderter Kleidung ist dieser Band eine unverzichtbare Grundlage: Präzise formuliert und mit Fotografien zu jedem Arbeitsschritt bestückt, führt die umfangreiche Anleitung zur perfekten Anpassung und Umsetzung von Schnitten für alle Basics der Damenbekleidung. In Wort und Bild erläutert wird hier nicht nur die exakte Vermessung für Blusen, Röcken, Blazer, Tuniken und Hosen, sondern auch die richtige Übertragung der Abmessungen auf vorhandene Schnittmuster. Darüber hinaus hält der Band Lösungsvorschläge bei Problemen mit der passgenauen Linienführung für alle Körperkonstitutionen bereit und ist damit ein praktischer Begleiter durch viele eigene Schneider-Projekte.

Global Denim

Author: Daniel Miller
Publisher: Berg
ISBN: 1847887392
Format: PDF, Kindle
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On any given day nearly half the world's population is wearing blue jeans. This is entirely extraordinary. Yet there has never been a serious attempt to understand the causes, nature and consequences of denim as 'the' global garment of our world. This book takes up that challenge with gusto. It gives clear, if surprising, explanations for why this is the case, challenging the accepted history of jeans and showing why the reasons cannot be commercial. While discussing the consequences of denim at the global level, the book consists of some exemplary studies by anthropologists of what blue jeans mean in a variety of local situations. These range from the discussion of hip-hop jeans in Germany, denim and sex in Milan through to the connection between denim and recycling in the US. But through all these intensively researched ethnographies of local denim we build our understanding of the most curious of all features of blue jeans - the rise of global denim.

The Maid s Daughter

Author: Mary Romero
Publisher: NYU Press
ISBN: 0814769365
Format: PDF, Mobi
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2012 Americo Paredes Book Award Winner for Non-Fiction presented by the Center for Mexican American Studies at South Texas College Selected as a 2012 Outstanding Title by AAUP University Press Books for Public and Secondary School Libraries This is Olivia’s story. Born in Los Angeles, she is taken to Mexico to live with her extended family until the age of three. Olivia then returns to L.A. to live with her mother, Carmen, the live-in maid to a wealthy family. Mother and daughter sleep in the maid’s room, just off the kitchen. Olivia is raised alongside the other children of the family. She goes to school with them, eats meals with them, and is taken shopping for clothes with them. She is like a member of the family. Except she is not. Based on over twenty years of research, noted scholar Mary Romero brings Olivia’s remarkable story to life. We watch as she grows up among the children of privilege, struggles through adolescence, declares her independence and eventually goes off to college and becomes a successful professional. Much of this extraordinary story is told in Olivia’s voice and we hear of both her triumphs and setbacks. We come to understand the painful realization of wanting to claim a Mexican heritage that is in many ways not her own and of her constant struggle to come to terms with the great contradictions in her life. In The Maid’s Daughter, Mary Romero explores this complex story about belonging, identity, and resistance, illustrating Olivia’s challenge to establish her sense of identity, and the patterns of inclusion and exclusion in her life. Romero points to the hidden costs of paid domestic labor that are transferred to the families of private household workers and nannies, and shows how everyday routines are important in maintaining and assuring that various forms of privilege are passed on from one generation to another. Through Olivia’s story, Romero shows how mythologies of meritocracy, the land of opportunity, and the American dream remain firmly in place while simultaneously erasing injustices and the struggles of the working poor. A happy ending for the maid's daughter: Hector Tobar's profile of Olivia for the LA Times

Dynamik der Gewalt

Author: Randall Collins
Publisher: Hamburger Edition HIS
ISBN: 3868546707
Format: PDF, Docs
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Obwohl es Zeiten gibt, in denen uns Gewalt allgegenwärtig erscheint, hält Randall Collins den tatsächlichen Ausbruch von gewalttätigen Handlungen für eine Ausnahme. In seiner Analyse der Dynamik der Gewalt legt der renommierte amerikanische Soziologe den Fokus auf die situative Interaktion zwischen den Kontrahenten. Ob eine spannungsgeladene Situation zu gewalttätigen Handlungen führt, hängt seiner Untersuchung zufolge nicht in erster Linie von der sozialen Herkunft, der Ethnie oder dem kulturellen Hintergrund der Beteiligten ab, sondern häufig von der Situation, in der sie stattfindet.